There are several instances when you might experience living out of a suitcase, such as being on vacation. But what if you could downsize your life to such a level of minimalism that you could live out of a suitcase?

You could have just gone through a divorce and want to start over again in another city, another state. Or you could be a fugitive from something, always on the move at a moment’s notice. Or a traveling salesperson, or out of state looking for another job, or doing a vacation somewhere, on the cheap while couchsurfing. Think about the money you could save by living like this for a set period of time.

Figure that the average room rents in major cities across the continent are pretty much the same with a decent one costing about $4-600 a month. One could easily get their living expenses down to under or around $1000 a month, which most can make even working a minimum wage job. Get a better paying job or moonlight and crank the income up to $1500 a month and you are saving $500 every single month! After a year or two of living like this you would have a pile of cash to either rent a bigger apt, pay a mortgage downpayment, move to another country, etc etc..

If you have a need, curiosity or desire to pack up and get out of Dodge and live a minimalist or nomadic lifestyle, then lets look at building a barebones list of essentials to take with you.

Clothes

• Pack two weeks of socks and underwear to keep on a 12-14 day laundry cycle. Take a pair of shorts which can also double as swim wear for lounging around. Also, for lounging around or working out, a basketball trainer top is perfect.
• About 10-12 t-shirts, and 3-4 pairs of pants would do for spring/summer attire.
• 3-4 Pairs of Pants. A good pair of jeans, a pair of casuals and two pairs of cargo pants with lots of pockets is what I would pack.
• Two Pairs of Footwear. Wear your heavier footwear, such as a pair of Merrill hikers for unseasonal weather and have another pair of smaller joggers/trainers packed away.
• One good jacket. Preferably a multi layer Gore Tex windbreaker and a small folding umbrella.
• Two hoodies. Two of these hooded sweatshirts are indispensable for being out on cooler days. It goes without saying, try to color coordinate your clothes, maybe using earthtones, like greens and browns (olive and beige?)
• Eye protection. One pair of good sunglasses, like Ray Ban or similar high quality lenses will protect your eyes from harmful UVB rays.
• Backpack. On top of a good suitcase, a backpack will come in handy for short day trips.

Tools

• Leatherman Multitool. This grandaddy of multi tools is all you need for any small repairs, and it can also be used for self defense as well (its best to carry “everyday objects” for that purpose anyways).
• Repair Kit. A small sewing kit will come in handy one day!
• Scissors. Again, Leatherman makes the best folding ones.
• Knife. For my money, the Spyderco Delica is the best bet for around $50 USD. It is 4 1/4″ long and has a “round eye” design with a hole in the base of the 3″ high carbon blade for quick, one handed openings. Some other good knife makers include Cold Steel, Benchmark, Gerber and CRKT - you can’t go wrong with any of them.
• Smallware. Several stainless steel plates and cup with flatware set is essential. A can opener, good serrated kitchen utility knife and kitchen scissors will handle most food prep jobs.
• Thermos. If you drink a lot of coffee like your’s truly, save your money and make your own and carry it in a thermos. The savings will add up.
• Lock. A good padlock is invaluable when travelling.

Small Electronics

• Notebook. A laptop computer like a Macbook is all you need to stay connected and stay abreast of news, updates, as well as staying connected to your people. Get a notebook like a Macbook which has an HDMI port and an HDMI cable, and you can stream anything to a flatscreen TV! Never pay cable bills again!
• iPod. All you need for portable audio and video. With a simple RCA cord, you can even play your iPod through a small bookshelf stereo system to fill a room with your music by plugging the single lead into the headphone jack on the iPod and the other two ends into the red and white stereo audio inputs.
• External HD. Use this for backup of all your files and storing your movies or music collection. Lacie makes a great 250 GB one that is the size of a cigarette package.
• Mobile Phone. All you need for keeping in touch and for emergencies. Get a pay-as-you-go plan if you want to be anonymous.
• Small Alarm Clock. One of the smaller digital clock radios or tiny battery powered alarms is vital if you have problems with waking on time.
• Digital Camera. A small pocket sized digital camera can be had for $200.

Personal

• Documents. Take your passport and ID with you and any important papers or certificates you might need. Medical records or prescriptions as important as well. Keep any invoices or CC records with you too as well as any other papers you might need.
• Medication. Keep any prescription medications or supplements you need handy.
• First Aid Kit. Keeping a small kit with some anti-inflammatory pills, some painkillers, Polysporin, antiseptic, gauze, bandaids, and that sort of thing will be something else to keep on hand.
• Ear Plugs. Traveling around from couch to couch or room to room, its more important than ever to ensure a good night’s sleep.
• Toiletries. A small “shaving kit” style bag can contain everything you need: trimmer, razors, nail file/clipper, tweezers, etc.
• Set up a “Mail Drop“. Its very easy to use a mail forwarding service to re-route your mail on the fly to different addresses.

The subject of “jobs that pay under the table” was covered recently, but due to the massive amount of email I have received on the subject, I felt it worthwhile to revisit the issue with a fairly large list to give you some ideas that might lead you to think of some resource or skill that you can use to live a more self-dependent lifestyle. With the downturn in the economy not letting up, it looks like these recessionary times of “jobless recovery” might be a new normal. Given the culture of entitlement that government, bankers and mulitnational corporations have to your hard-earned money, it comes as no surprise to me why the whole topic of working for cash under the table is a hot one these days. What follows are some more ideas to get you thinking of something that might be an out for you.

67 Jobs that pay cash “under the table”:

1. Tutoring
2. Writing or proofreading essays for students
3. Gardening
4. Snow removal/snow shovelling
5. Direct marketing online. Selling an end product which is shipped using drop shipping.
6. Building websites.
7. Software programming/development
8. Nanny
9. Babysitting
10. Personal assistant
11. Artisan/crafter
12. Building trades
13. Bicycle repair
14. Appliance repair
15. Personal trainer
16. Jewellery/silversmith
17. Accounting/Tax preparation
18. Mover
19. Day labourer
20. House painter
21. Yoga instructor
22. Dance instructor
23. Martial arts instruction
24. Boxing instruction
25. Writing articles online
26. Affilliate marketing online
27. Interpreter
28. Tour guide. Giving specialized (walking) tours in an urban area to a target audience. This can be especially good if you can speak a foreign language.
29. Antique sales
30. Furniture refinishing.
31. Reselling clearance items online. Quite often big box stores will sell good for up to 80% off. These items can often be sold online for a good markup, provided you have a good niche.
32. Selling produce roadside. Growing large enough crops of fruits and vegetables can make a good side income, provided you have a good location to sell from.
33. Handyman
34. Marine mechanic
35. Auto repair
36. Rent your home or apartment to tourists
37. Maid service
38. Delivery service
39. Bicycle messenger
40. Computer repairs
41. Pet sitter
42. Dog walker
43. House sitter
44. Upholstery
45. Carpet cleaning
46. Janitorial work
47. Salvage. Ripping copper and similar scrap metal out of abandoned buildings is very lucrative. In some cities I have even heard of people stealing manhole covers and selling them for scrap, which although obviously illegal, proves my point that there is money in metal.
48. Car cleaining
49. Yard sales
50. Ticket scalping
51. Photography
52. Small engine repair. Repairing riding lawnmowers and that sort of thing can fetch some good part time income.
53. Selling collectibles Stamps, sport card collections, etc, can all be a good vocation.
54. Hairdresser
55. Massage therapist
56. Private investigation
57. Selling firewood
58. Street vendor
59. Street musician/busker
60. Food sales. Selling homemade preserves, pastries and that sort of thing at farmer’s markets is a great source of income.
61. Tattoo artist
62. Junk removal. If you have a pickup with an 8 foot box, this is an easy way to make a few bucks on the side. You would be surprised with the aging population, how many people need dump trips.
63. Computer repair
64. Golf lessons
65. Cater private parties
66. Bartend private parties
67. Disk jockey

It is estimated that less than 5% of the population live entirely by cash alone. We have beome dependent on using plastic banking cards and online purchasing in the last 20-30 years, since the first ATM machines appeared in the early 1980s. There are obvious upsides such as primarily convenience, but there are downsides too. The drawbacks of living off of plastic become more self evident when one finds themselves going through bankruptcy, divorce, lawsuits, debt collection, back taxes, etc. Using plastic ATM banking cards and credit cards leaves a paper trail for the snoops in your life to follow. But there is a workaround that can allow you to have it both ways - keep your plastic and leave no paper trail of your purchases.

The Lost Art of Cash Only Living:

Get cash out of your credit cards. Going to the bank and getting a cash advance is eay to do, and as long as you pay the difference in 30 days, it will be just like using a debit card on your chequing account. Once you walk out of the bank with cash in your hands from an advance on your Visa cards, there will be no trace of where the money went, and what it was used for.

Start using a prepaid credit card. Use the cash from the credit cards to buy prepaid credit cards. The term “pre-paid credit card” is a misleading one as they are not really credit cards nor even bank debit cards, even though they are issued by companies which also deal in retail credit products, such as Visa for example. These cards will not even have your name on them, instead using just the account number and there is no approval process, as they are really, in practical terms, gift cards issued by credit card companies. You dont even need a bank account to purchase one from a bank. If you are going through bankruptcy, divorce etc, and need some extra cash flow that you do not want others to know about, try this golden tip: get a cash advance from your Visa card, and then walk out of the bank with the cash, give it to a friend to buy a pre-paid credit card for you. Truly untraceable. (note: though that it’s fraudulent in some areas to try to hide assets, such as money from a bank account or just plain cash, from your creditors. It’s one thing to take money out to ensure access to it; it’s another to take it in order to try to hide its existence and location. They could nail you for that.)

Learn to carry cash for all of your basic expenses. Using your credit card as a debit card, by paying off your cash advances monthly, you will have a literal stready cash flow. Use this cash to pay your rent, buy your groceries, pay your utilities, gas, etc all with cash. This will also totally eliminate the risk of exposing you to ATM skimming fraud, which is becoming more prevalent daily, especially with those no-name ATM machines. By paying cash only, you cover yourself against these risks.

Use money orders to pay bills. Getting a money order can be relatively expensive if you buy a Western Union money order from one of those cash-a-cheque stores. They usually cost $1-$3. Not only do you save the $30 that a box of cheques costs you, but they are also safer than carrying large sums of cash on you to pay the rent or mortgage.

Keep your receipts. There are instances where you will need receipts such as returning a faulty consumer product, or doing your tax return. Go to Walmart and buy one of those cheap paper accordion style file folders for storing your receipts to keep things organized for you.

Save money by living a cash only lifestyle. Privacy is not the only benefit of living a cash only life. Arrange your life from a week-to-week spending perspective and keep only enough cash on hand that you need to make it through the week. Get one of those fireproof safes for some added security as they are not unreasonably expensive for the smaller ones.

Use your credit card cash advances to guard yourself against fraud. Contrary to popular belief, when you fall victim to a typical ATM skimmer fraud, you are not insured against loss as you are with a major credit card. Usually when your Visa or Mastercard gets lost or stolen and someone uses it fraudulently, all you are on the hook for is the $50 deductible. With your debit card, not so - you are not protected at all. One of many reasons why the system needs to be reformed, as the 1980s magnetic strip technology which is easily circumvented by a fraudster’s skimmer could be replaced with a more secure technology, but the banks are resistant to spend the money for this upgrade, and the government (which seems essentially owned by the big banks and corporations today) is resistant to force them to do anything about it - a move which would greatly protect consumers. But, I digress. Meantime, we have to find more ingenious ways to avoid falling victim to both a system which is gamed to work against us and criminals who want to steal our hard-earned money.

Need to hide cash? Check out other articles in the ongoing “How to Hide Your Cash” series.

Continuing the ongoing topic of “how to hide money“, the idea of hiding it in plain sight - right in a bank comes to mind. In the article “how to hide money from an abusive husband” we discussed several ways of hiding your cash bit by bit with the help of a third party. I recently had a discussion with a woman I knew who recently fled a violent domestic situation, hid out for a while in a shelter and various safe houses while she went through the whole divorce proceedings. She shared with me a brilliant idea - hiding your money in a bank!

Assuming there is a legitimate reason to hide your assets, one way you could go about it is to do what she did - slowly withdraw small amounts or $500-$1000 regularly over time, and give this money to a friend who you have to be able to trust 100%. This third party whom you trust 100% opens an account and gives you the ATM card and PIN number. You make the deposits in cash, thus avoiding a paper trail that someone like an abusive ex or snoop could pick up on to track you down. It would help as well if you had some kind of excuse as to where the money went - good excuses could include online gambling, or even booking a few red-eye flights to Vegas and renting a hotel (and not gambling). Do this a few times, and there’s your alibi.

A family member might make for a trustworthy third party as well. But there are risks, namely if something happened to this person such as an accidental death. That would be a bad scene as once the death notices are filed, the family or attorneys would notify the bank and the account would be frozen. But, there is a way to indemnify yourself against this scenario by getting the third party to give you a personal cheque drawn on the account. Since (with most banks) cheques are good for anywhere from 3-6 months, you would have to get updated cheques accordingly.

By keeping in regular touch with the third party as well as having a regular interval communication schedule with them, you can keep up on their status and well-being. If this is someone you trust with your life, say an elderly parent, and they happen to fall off the radar screen for a couple of days, you would have to assume the worst and either withdraw the cash from the ATM or, get the cheque certified and cash it out in a cash-a-cheque store. This way, you have an insurance plan in case something terrible happens. If it is a family member in whose account you are hiding your money and the worst thing happens, it could also act as a “poor man’s will”. Money can be easy to hide, after all, its only paper. Something else to consider when you are hiding your money!

With the popularity of MMA, there is no shortage of self defense advice - lot of it coming from practitioners of newer martial arts, like Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu. While that is a great choice to study for most people, the issue is that it takes a great deal of time and discipline to become proficient at it. When it comes to preparing oneself for a violent street encounter, grappling or going to the ground (ie, the street) might not be the wisest choice for a number of reasons. Same goes for learning complex small joint holds, like finger or elbow locks, because with the huge adrenaline dump that goes with being attacked suddenly, your fine motor skills deteriorate very rapidly. (see Bruce Siddle’s excellent book called “Sharpening the Warrior’s Edge” for more detail about this).

What does work best in short violent street encounters are gross motor skill movements (knees, headbutts, elbows, etc) which direct maximum force against your adversary’s weakest areas. There are no better manuals of study than these listed below (yes they are old school, but definitely not outdated!):

“Championship Fighting” by Jack Dempsey. Dempsey was perhaps one of the top three boxers of all time, and his manual from 1950 is years ahead of its time. It was plagiarized by an author writing under the pseudonym “Ned Beaumont”, who wrote a book in the late 90s called “Championship Streetfighting” which borrowed large sections of Dempsey’s work. It is also common knowledge that Dempsey was also one of Bruce Lee’s favorite fighters of all time. Dempsey, a smaller individual, used superior technique to devestate many larger opponents. The “Manassa Mauler” used to delight in beating up big guys! This is a must read for any boxing-history buff or serious student of martial arts. Print copies of this book are rare and very expensive.Championship Fighting.

“Kill or be Killed” by Rex Applegate. The late, great Applegate trained allied special forces in close-quarter combat during World War II. Kill or be Killed was published by the US Marine Corps as Fleet Marine Force Reference Publication 12-80 with the introduction, “This reference publication was written in 1976 by Lieutenant Colonel Rex Applegate, USA (Ret), with the help of the Combat Section, Military Intelligence Training Center, Camp Ritchie, Maryland. At last there is one volume which speaks to the subjects of unarmed combat (offensive and defensive), combat use of weapons, disarming the enemy, handling of prisoners, the handle of mob/crowd disobedience, the use of chemicals in such situations, and how to establish a professional riot control unit.” Kill or be Killed features unbeatable close-quarter combat techniques that will enable you to devastate any punks who would dare to mess with you!

“Get Tough” by William E Fairbairn. Fairburn was a British soldier, and police officer who was for most of his early career stationed in the former British territory of Shanghai, where he was forced into kill-or-be-killed streetfight on a regular basis. His relatively short book encompasses all of the basic, easy to learn and apply self defense skills which are still the best to this day. Get Tough!

“The Secrets of Street Self-Defence” by Paul Wellard. This is a relatively obscure, but thorough treatise on self defense from the 1970s. It was also plagiarized decades later by Peyton Quinn in “Secrets of Barroom Brawling”, where large amounts of the text were reproduced. The author covers avoiding street encounters, the mental aspects of fighting and controlling fear, conditioning, takedowns, nerve strikes, grappling, improvised weapons and more. The Secrets of Street Self-Defence shouldn’t be a secret!

The $50 & Up Underground House Book teaches how to build the lowest cost, most sunshine-filled, best ventilated and driest underground houses of all. It teaches how to incorporate greenhouses, root cellars and fallout shelters into an underground home. It covers both hillside and flat land design, and explains how to solve drainage problems with dependable gravity rather then expensive, failure-prone building materials. It also details ways to pass or otherwise deal with the building codes.

Read the book for yourself and imagine the greatest possibilities for lighting, ventilation and views in an underground home. Where most owner-designers and even professional architects are stuck on the disastrous “First Thought” concept, a design which greatly limits view, sunshine and air flow, and which usually causes staggering drainage problems, Oehler offers the “Basic Design” with the “Up Hill Patio” which solves these problems and more. He explains the weaknesses of the other three design concepts favored by conventional architects: skylights, vertical window wells and atriums. For example, though skylights admit a rewarding amount of light, they are hard to use for ventilation and fire escape, get dirty quicker, often leak, admit too much of the summer sun, too little of the winter rays, and offer no view whatsoever. They may have special applications, Oehler argues, but there are better design concepts for normal use.

Here’s what Natural Life Magazine wrote about the book:

“The ideas and methods are quite often unorthodox - but stronger for it. The design theory is well based in experience and appears to work well. Straightforward diagrams and black-and-white photos illustrate many construction and design points … a very useful and pleasant book for anyone wanting to build an inexpensive but solid underground structure.”

Now in its seventh edition, it has sold more than 90,000 copies and has received enthusiastic reviews from Mother Earth News, National Public Radio and many others. Many consider it the classic in its field. The $50 & Up Underground House Book reprises all these advantages, and more. The book discusses in detail more than 50 different topics related to underground construction.
Download Underground House Book

This big, 112-page, 8 1/2″ x 11″ book contains:

* 4 pages of engineering tables and diagrams
* 8 floor plans
* 54 photos
* 100+ illustrations

Table of Contents
Chapter 1: What an Underground House Is Not
Chapter 2: What an Underground House Is - 23 Advantages
Chapter 3: Histories of the $50 and $500 Underground Houses
Chapter 4: The PSP System
Chapter 5: Design
The Basic Design
Posts
Elevation Changes
Views, Light, Ventilation
Five approved Methods of Design
-Uphill Patio
-Offset Room
-The Royer Foyer
-Clerestories
-Gables
Drainage
Special Designs
Flat-Land Designs
Special Effects
Special Features
Patio Barbecue Area
The Bachelor Bar
Built-in Greenhouses
Root Cellar/Fallout Shelster/Wine Cellar
Built-in Coolers

Chapter 6: Materials: Where to Buy and Scrounge
Wrecking Buildings
Windows
Auctions
Sawmill Lumber
Polyethylene
Concrete
Fee Timber Sources
Working Up Posts and Beams

Chapter 7: Construction
Secret Construction Method
The Excavation
Building the Structure

Chapter 8: You And the Building Codes
Appendices
Download Underground House Book

Taking a vest or an old denim jacket and lining with thin, tightly meshed chicken wire and layers of heavy duty aluminum foil in between will short out the two darts, even if they pierce one’s clothing. Several layers of the wire and foil will short the current between the two electrodes. Just use some kind of tool to rivet, staple or snap the wire in the body of the jacket to hold it in place fairly well. Duct tape might come in handy in the final stage of construction to hold it all together.

One doesn’t have to look too far to see examples of howout of control law enforcement and other agents of the State have become or late. Sadly, there is no shortage of examples of excessive use of Tasers.

If it is possible for you to have access to an urban sewer system through larger culverts or aqueducts, then you could well have an expressway to freedom. All it takes is a bit of curiosity and some spare time to scope one out and see where it leads. If it is possible, with some imagination, you could even get the plans for the city’s sewer system with a creative excuse - say like a urban planning project for university or something along those lines.

An urban, underground escape route might prove to be an interesting thing to research, in fact the notion of finding hidden urban vanishing points is so interesting to some that there are whole networks of people devoted to urban exploration:

• Urban Exploration Resource
• Sub-Urban
• Undercity
• Infiltration
• Vanishing Point

Surviving an assault on your person, or “winning a fight”, aren’t your only worries, because it is highly probable that you will be dealing with the police and/or legal system. You could win a physical battle, but loose the legal war - if you do not play your cards right!

When a street fight or assault occurs, there are several factors that will likely trigger the attention of the police: noise, broken or damaged property, disturbed neighbours or businesses, and obvious signs of physical trauma. Since it is the job of the police to act on reasonable suspicions of breaches of the criminal code, you can bet they will be asking you questions if you get into a fight in public.

From the perspective of the police in investigating probable assaults, they are concerned with factors such as:

• The use of force by you - was it reasonable? Did you use reasonable force in protecting yourself? In determining whether or not you have a legitimate claim to self defence, they will determine if the force you used to defend yourself was proportionate to the force or threat of immanent force posed against you? For example, in practical terms, a slap is equal to a slap, a punch to a punch, etc… If all the other person did was give you a shove, you would not be justified in throwing them to the ground with a Sambo throw and stomping their head to the ground. This is what the law would term “excessive force”, which will invalidate your claims to “self defence” - guaranteed!
• Was there a “disparity of force” used against you? If you are attacked by a larger attacker or multiple attackers, it bodes in your favour with your claim that you had to use force to defend yourself against immediate physical harm or even death.
• Were there aggravating circumstances? Is your attacker known to you? Often “prior acts” will help you, if the person also has a history of stalking or harassing you.
• Did you do all you could to reasonably avoid a fight? Could you have run? Called the police? Got in your car and drove away? Why did you get out of your car and start an argument with the other person(s)? All of these sorts of criteria will help the police filter out whether or not you acted “reasonably”, ie, would most other people have done the same as you? The word “reasonable” is the middle word in police work! Keep it in mind, and it could save your ass from being thrown in the slammer or being sued, or both!

Things to keep in mind when dealing with the police after a fight:

• In a streetfight, there is no “winner” or “looser”. The “winner” usually goes to jail, and/or civil court, and the “looser” usually ends up injured, possibly permanently, or in the trauma ward in the hospital - or dead. Keep this in mind when dealing with all the crazies out there. It is not worth it, to get into a potentially life-changing conflict, over trifles or ego, when they can be avoided. Some times, you just have to let shit go.
• When the police show up, for God’s sake, be polite and respectful. Do not act aggressively. If you came out on top and the attacker is injured, do not gloat or act proud of yourself. Keep you emotions in check! Emotional intelligence is your best friend here in the few minutes within which the police will determine if you are a “good guy” or “bad guy”.
• Identify yourself as the victim. Lay out the sequence of events in a calm, rational manner. Say, “Officer, he did this and this, I tried to get away, but he left me no choice… He did “A”, which forced me to do “B”, which led to “C”. And again, be polite! Do not use profanity, slurs or anything else. Sure, you could have beaten a really bad guy’s ass back there, but don’t also beat yourself!
• Learn the law in your jurisdiction. Usually the legal interpretation of self defence is pretty standard, but it does vary. For example, in Texas, we have the so-called “Castle Law“, where you are pretty much entitled to use lethal force to protect your home from home invaders. Other places like Canada or the UK have stricter laws.
• If arrested, say nothing without a lawyer present. Learn about police interrogation tactics like the “Reid Technique“.

The best way to deal with the police after a fight or assault is to avoid getting into on in the first place! That is the major premise of this site - avoidance!

For most purposes some of the best places to hide money, cash or valuables is in a home security safe. There are many affordable fireproof home safes out there as well. But for those to whom hiding their money in a home safe isn’t an option for one reason or another, hiding money underground is a good option.
The idea of burying treasure underground is by no means a new one, but due to the global economic recession, it is an idea that is gaining in popularity once again. With mounting bank failures and an increasing intrusion into people’s lives by government, it isn’t hard to understand why some folks would resort to this method of hiding money.

Thanks to inexpensive plastic plumbing pipe (PVC Pipe) and waterproof resins, you can make your own do-it-yourself underground safe to hide your cash, gold, jewelry, heirlooms, important documents, or any other valuables. Plastic pipe will withstand virtually all of the elements as well: acids, salts, water and other natural elements.

How to Make an Underground Safe for Your Valuables

• To “cache” your goods, you need 6-8 inch plastic plumbing pipe, cut about 20-60 inches long, threaded on the ends. Get two threaded end caps with some plastic pipe cement, or “ABS” plastic cement. You could also thread the end caps before doing anything and submerge the tube underwater to see if there are any leaks. In any event, after the waterproof glue is applied, you should have no worries.
• Get some zip lock plastic bags and put your goods into multiple layers of them, and zip them up tight. Roll some elastic bands around them as well to help your goods fit into the tube. If you can save some of the silica gel packets from inside vitamin bottles, they will combat mould, moisture and mildew. Silica gel rebinds moisture (water molecules) in its random intersecting channels which have various diameters. Your stash will remain dry, even after fully saturated with water vapor.
• Place your goods at one end of the pipe, and mark the other end, as you will have to cut the pipe open to get to your goods one day, and do not want to risk damaging them. Get a posthole digger and dig some holes in a location of your choice about 5-6 feet deep.
• If you are burying gold, and metal detectors are a worry to you, consider burying your cache tubes near a metal fence post, or other similar innocent looking structure. Most metal detectors can only reach some 12 feet underground to find a 3/4 inch pipe. You could even bury hundreds of little pieces of metal washers and lug nuts around the area a few inches or feet underground to throw off any snoop with a metal detector, who may have reason to suspect you’re burying gold or other valuables made our of metal in your backyard.

In any event, hiding your cash either in the ground or your home depends on several things: your ability to keep a secret from anybody and everybody, thinking like a snoop to outsmart one, and lastly, common sense.